Tree Pruning Basics

Tree pruning is a key element in the long-term maintenance of many landscape trees and shrubs. It can improve the appearance, health and structural integrity of the plant, as well as provide a variety of other benefits. Pruning can enhance fruit production, reduce insect pest infestations and help trees stand up to storm damage.

When done correctly, pruning can also promote new growth that will become the main structure of the plant, and can create a desirable shape or form. It is important to consider the overall goals of a pruning project before beginning any cuts, and to plan ahead for the future needs of the plant.

Using sharp tools and making clean cuts is essential when pruning a tree. Whenever possible, it is recommended that pruning work be done by professional arborists or qualified tree care professionals. However, many ornamental and small shade trees can be pruned safely by the homeowner with proper training and the right equipment.

Structural Pruning

This type of pruning is used to maintain the desired shape of the plant, control its height or width and to remove dead, diseased or broken limbs. It is especially important to do structural pruning on young trees to help them develop strong frameworks that will support future heavy branches and fruit.

Thinning & Hedging

Thinners reduce the density of the crown, providing more light for the remaining plants and helping to balance the form of the plant. Thinning is a common pruning practice for most broadleaf evergreens such as rhododendron, holly, mountain laurel, and pieris. However, excessive thinning can result in reduced stored carbohydrates and predispose the plant to disease.

Heading is a less common pruning technique that can be used to help direct growth and to control the size of an ornamental or shade tree. It can also be helpful in reducing the spread of a plant to limit its potential for wind damage or to improve visibility.

Avoid removing more than one-fourth of a plant’s branches at one time, and cut a little more each year to keep the plant healthy and looking good. Removing too much at once may weaken the remaining plants, cause regrowth from suckers or stubs, and create unsightly “lion’s tailing,” in which the leafy tips of the branch fall off, leaving only the bare stems behind (see image below).

When removing a branch or limb, make your first cut on the underside of the limb. Then, about 18 inches past the first cut, make your second cut on the top side. This three-cut technique will prevent tearing of the bark and allow for the proper callus formation that will help protect the tree.

Never coat pruning cuts with paint or wound dressings. Coatings don’t prevent decay or promote wound closure and can actually impede the healing process. This can leave the wound open to infection and can be particularly problematic on older trees or in areas of the canopy where the bark has a thin layer.

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